It doesn’t take
long to drive 30 miles up a lonely two lane blacktop road. Howard, the Cat,
had said Bertie was in Luminous. Russell Ohlmstead, the local
sheriff, had nothing else to go on, so he went with that. Howard was riding
along and they were on their way to Luminous, Texas. The afternoon
was sliding on toward early evening. It was still warm and bright
out, but the angle of the light was different now. Interviewing the
people out on the ranches and looking around a bit had taken several
hours. “You think you’re
sure, huh?” said Russell. “The closer we
get to her, the better I will know it,” said Howard, rather
inscrutably. “I hope I’m not
crazy. I also hope I never have to explain this to anyone,” said
Russell. “I’m hungry,
Russell. She hadn’t fed me. I was still asleep,” added
Howard. “Not to mention thirsty.” “Well,
Howard, I’m hungry too, but
I think we better stay on the trail. I’ll stop and get you
something at the little store at the end of town, if they’re still
open.” Russell
got there before closing at 8PM. He purchased a small bag of
Friskies, fish flavor, a bottle of water and two plastic bowls.
Russell had never had a cat. He had no idea what a cat might prefer. “It
was the only cat food they had in there, Howard. I hope you don’t
mind, but this is an emergency,” said Russell. But he took the time
to feed the kitty. While they were parked outside the little store,
which was now closing, Russell opened the Friskies, and the water
bottle and decanted some each into a bowl for Howard to eat and drink
down on the floorboard of the Ford SUV. Russell
drank some of the water too. “Thank
you. I hate fish. But it doesn’t matter,” said Howard. “She’s
not right in town here, but not too far away.” “Where
now?” said Russell. Howard
hopped back up on the passenger seat and looked out at the darkening
sky. He nodded toward the north. “She’s moving. I don’t
understand. But she’s moving fast and she’s up that way, back on
the highway.” The
sheriff knew about the soft rolling hills with the moving colored
lights, but he hadn’t actually gotten to see them after dark
before. It just hadn't happened. It did this evening. The whole
experience since this morning had only gotten stranger and stranger.
Now he was driving past the mysterious colorful display that the town
of Luminous was named for, trusting a telepathic tabby cat’s
psychic connection to his human keeper, sweet Bertie. He
drove slowly, giving Howard a chance to stay on the trail. Also he wanted to
admire the mysterious lights. “Here.
Wait here. She’s coming somehow, right here…” Howard stood
with his fore paws on the dash looking out into the darkness toward a
sprawling house and outbuildings across the small highway from where
they were parked and waiting.
Probably the
soreness of her feet began the process of coming back to herself. She
was barefoot. She found herself walking on a the soft rolling mound
in a desert landscape. It didn’t look familiar, but then would it
have looked familiar if this had been like any other day?
She didn’t know
why she kept taking steps. It seemed like she must have been going
somewhere, if she could just remember where.
“I am,” she
thought, and then stopped. No name sprang instantly to mind.
There were lights
around her. Maybe the lights had something to do with why she found
herself here on this remote patch of desert.
Night had fallen,
and it was getting chilly. She looked down at herself. She was
wearing jeans, and a dark colored t-shirt. She ran her fingers
through her hair. She usually wore it pinned up with one of those big
claw things, but it was missing and her shoulder length dark hair
fell in tangled locks. It kept her neck and shoulders warm, she
thought.
She stopped
walking, to spare her feet. “Bertie,” she said. “Who is
Bertie?”
Some of the lights
were amber colored. Amorphous. Having no particular locus of
emanation. They made her think of summer warmth. She smiled there in
the dark.
Some were blue like
clear evening skies. Deeply blue. There was also lavender, and a deep
pink. She enjoyed them very much. She watched them drifting like
jelly fishes almost. Aimless, apparently.
She thought she had
better start walking again. Surely. But her feet were really sore,
now that she was noticing them.
“Not a good
place for you,” came to her mind.
“Is someone
here?” Bertie asked. She couldn’t see anyone there in the dark
with the pretty colored lights moving all around her.
“Yes, lady, I
am here,” but the word for lady was a bit smudged in her mind,
as if the speaker thought in some other tongue.
“But, who are
you?” she asked again.
“Hewhowards,”
the words seemed to say. She laughed because she didn’t know the
word. Ward.
“I will take
you to a safe place for you,” he said, “If you will allow
it.”
“May I see you?”
she said.
“Yes.”
He seemed like a
very large man. A giant surely, barely visible there in the colorful
semi-dark.
“I don’t know
where I am,” she said after looking him over for a minute or so.
“I know,” he
said aloud, in a soft deep voice.
He bent over so
that she could reach his neck, and said, “wrap your left arm around
my neck and I will carry you in my right arm.”
So she did, and he
picked her up like a little child and began walking away from the
hillside of the colored lights.
When I found Howard sitting outside, like he was, I knew I wasn’t
going to like this, whatever it was. In addition, I got a cold nasty feeling in my
stomach when I saw that the door was about an inch ajar.
Howard didn’t
budge. He kept looking at me, like he had something to say. His
bright green eyes looked deeply into mine. I kind of shook my head to
maybe break the spell.
“I sure wish
you’d spit it out, Howard,” I said, as I climbed the three steps
and opened the door. I didn’t even say “Geronimo!” I just
opened the door and stepped in. Howard followed me inside. Oh, how I
wanted to see Bertie in there making coffee or ordering groceries or
anything, but she wasn’t there.
I had never been
upstairs to Bertie’s apartment, but I followed Howard up there as
soon as I saw that she wasn’t in the store. It almost seemed to me
that Howard wanted to show me that she wasn’t upstairs either.
The apartment was
neat, spare even. Bertie didn’t go in for a lot of stuff lying
around. If I had taken time to admire it, I would have noticed her
very good taste. Everything seemed to be in place. There was no sign
of trouble up there. Whatever had happened to her didn’t happen in
her rooms upstairs.
Howard headed
downstairs and I followed his tail down the tight little old
fashioned staircase. It occurred to me to check the drawer for
Mulvaney’s Colt. It was there. I didn’t know if that was good or
bad, or if it was just data.
I don’t know how
he did it, Howard’s pretty heavy, but he managed to get onto the
counter and sat there staring at me, pointedly. Once again, the big
tabby looked like he wanted to say something.
“She’s in
Luminous.”
“I don’t have
time to lose my mind, Howard,” I said, partly to steady myself. I
wasn’t ready for a telepathic tomcat. “How would you know that,
anyhow?”
“Russell.”
The beast knew my name? “She’s in Luminous.”
“I can’t very
well call for search and rescue on the word of a cat, Howard,” I
said, but I was thinking it too!
“I
always know where she is,” came back at me. I had a strange
wobbly feeling. Maybe I was losing it? I stared into the small mirror
on the wall in there to see if I looked crazy, while I was thinking.
No crazier than usual. Just me, a fiftyish guy in a tan uniform.
“How and why,
Howard? How and why?” I frowned at the big fuzzball on Bertie’s
counter.
“I was
asleep. Then she was gone. The door was open, and she was gone,”
he said.
I took an
analytical look around the inside of the store. Everything looked
normal in here too. I took the Colt, and found her extra key in the
drawer, right where she said it would be.
I stepped outside,
with Howard at my heels, and locked the door. I couldn’t very well
leave him there alone could I? Besides, he said he was coming with
me.
How do you like
that?
I opened the
passenger side door, to let Howard in, closed it and walked around to
my side. Before I got in I looked at the little old Apache John store
sitting there not telling me anything. It looked utterly normal. Just
a little old fashioned brick two story building sitting alone on the
highway, the highway leading to Luminous, Texas.
Maybe a bit like this real one!
But before driving
to Luminous, I owed it to Bertie to search the area, no matter what
Howard thought he knew. Besides open land, there were exactly two
places I needed to visit. Both were ranches. One, the Mitchell place
was five miles down a dirt road called Swallow for some reason. The
other, Johnson’s, was at the other end of Swallow, eastward.
I didn’t think
they would know anything at either place. But, me and Howard drove
out to Mitchell’s first anyhow. What it usually amounts to in a
case like this is to inform the homeowner of the situation and ask
them to call if they see anything.
I talked to Mrs.
Mitchell on her big wide old fashioned porch, deeply shady and
pleasant. On some other day, I thought it might be nice to visit
here. Mrs. Aline Mitchell was a serious looking blond in her forties,
who listened nodded and said she sure would keep her eyes open and
that she really liked Bertie, the store lady. I gave her a card with
my mobile number on it, in case she noticed anything.
A similar scenario
happened at the Johnson’s place. I talked to a hired lady, who did
the cooking and some housekeeping in the big stone building. She took
my card and said she would inform the Johnsons when they got home.
Her name was Louisa.
At neither house
did I admit I had Bertie’s tomcat in my vehicle.
I drove westward on
Swallow until we reached that little desert highway, and then turned
north.
What do you call a
place that's almost no place at all? Unincorporated? Sure. A little
old store, also the mail station, and the gas pump. Yup. Not much to
it.
Let me set this up
for you. This little place, almost no place, is situated about 25
miles south of Luminous, TX, out in the county. Now, Luminous isn’t
much either, but it’s more than this place. In Luminous there is a
school, all grades in one building, a Charismatic church, two grocery stores, a motel, a
gas station, a drug store, and a nice little café. Here, there is
the desert scrub, a two lane asphalt road crumbling at the edges and
this little store, open every day until 8PM. After that you'd have to
drive a lot further to get anything.
I call this place
Geronimo sometimes, to irritate the love of my life who runs the
store and the mail station. She says there are five towns in America
named Geronimo and this ain’t one of them. This place is called
Apache John. Now, what kind of sense does that make? Does anybody
even know why? Who was Apache John, anyhow?
Of course, she
doesn’t know she’s the love of my life, and her name is Bertie,
short for Alberta Mulvaney. I’ve been irritating her and keeping an
eye on things, unofficially, for about five years.
I’m the law.
County. I drive a white Ford Explorer with stars on the doors.
Why doesn’t she
know? It’s a good question and maybe I’m not as brave as I look.
What if she laughed? What if she got that look on her face a woman
gets sometimes and you can tell she thinks you’re not quite as
smart or good looking as her dog.
So, every morning
at about 9AM, right after the Apache John store and gas pump opens I
drive up and park right in front of the door. I take a good hard look
around, just making sure. Then I get out of my Ford, go over and open
the door, saying “Geronimo!” in greeting. Bertie will be sorting
some mail, or whatever she does. She makes coffee, I know that,
because she fills my cup every morning.
“Hi, Officer,”
she’ll say. “Coast still clear out there? Everything good?”
She’ll smile a little, with something in her hands, as she goes
about her business in that little kingdom in the desert. She knows I
drive by three or four times a day. Anybody might do that.
“Thanks,
Russell,” she usually says when I take my coffee outside.
I stand on the
little concrete porch and take in the scenery. The coffee steams. The
day begins and I have to roll out of there. There is an office to
check in at.
If you count the
inhabitants of a couple of far flung ranches, the population of
Apache John, nearly no place at all is about 9, including Bertie’s
tom cat. Howard, the cat, is an over-sized fat headed tabby. He
regards me with disdain.
The Apache John
Grocery’s customer base is mostly tourists, travelers, delivery
drivers, people on the road as a way of life. The ranchers shop there
too. There was reason enough to keep an eye on the place.
Bertie isn’t
completely defenseless. She’s a widow and she keeps her husband’s
big Colt in a drawer behind the counter. She and Howard the cat live
in a little four room apartment over the store.
On the day in
question, a Tuesday morning, not that it matters, I drove up to the Apache John store, as usual, but I found Howard sitting on the steps. Howard is not an
outdoor cat.
This
is the main street in my home town, Gate City, Virginia. This is all
of it--or all of what's considered the "downtown" part
of it, anyway. Both east and west of the section shown here, Jackson
Street continues on as Route 58, lined with houses and a few
businesses.
Photo
from a tourist's video that is not especially well informed, but does
show most of the old buildings and present-time shops downtown:
Kane
and Jackson Streets intersect at an oblique angle; the narrow side of
the angle includes a few side streets on which the schools are
situated. The wide side includes one back street that in 1983 was
deemed neglected enough that, with a little effort to make it look
more dilapidated, could be used for the bank scene--"Downtown
Mill Rock"--in the movie The River; it runs as far as the
old railroad depot, now the headquarters of the Life Saving Crew. The
main streets follow Daniel Boone's Trail to the Moccasin Gap.
The
war on indigenous Americans, the Civil War, and labor unions' "wars"
with employers most definitely reached Gate City but they're not the
parts of our history people enjoy reenacting. Our favorite parts of
our history skip from the "pioneers" who came after Daniel
Boone and stayed long enough to contribute something to the building
of a town, straight into the twentieth century when the Original
Carter Family basically created the genre of "country"
music.
A
section of Route 23 near my home was officially identified as the
Country Music Highway around the turn of the century. Gate City,
Virginia, does not actually have a strong claim to be called the home
or birthplace of country music, being about ten miles away from the
settlement the Carters called home, but in the late twentieth century
it certainly had a rich and vibrant tradition of folk/country music.
It would be a shame if the tradition lasted through only two
generations' lifetimes.
The
Roberts family who ran the Family Bakery Cafe where I used to
maintain this web site, pre-COVID, worked very hard to encourage
present-time musicians...
Photo
from Virginia.org, showing one of the Friday and Saturday evening
street concerts during which the whole of downtown Jackson Street was
used for open-air concerts. I suppose the contemporary bands who
performed there--all local--thought the bands whose names I remember
sounded "oldfashioned." To me they sounded "all alike,
the sort of generic rockabilly sound of which Nashville is already
full." Local youth still sing but I've heard very little of our
sound...but maybe I just didn't go into town to hear enough, I
don't know. The Appalachian Dream Spinners did seem to be preserving
our sound, on their three albums, but then I've not heard anything
about them since about 2010.
Unfortunately
only some of our memorable musicians have posted any digital
recordings online, and the one who currently owns the domain of
FolkMusic.com is willing to share only an old, bad digital recording
free of charge. Nevertheless. Musicians with some claim to be "local"
do include some of the best known names in the "country"
and "Southern Gospel" music genres.
Of
the thirty names that leaped to mind, not all were ever actually
based in Gate City. Most, in fact, were based in nearby towns.
The Original Carter Family thought of themselves as residents of a
settlement called Maces Springs. If people feel that Maces Springs
was too small to count as a town, they might have called it a suburb
of Hiltons, which had its own post office and was legally counted as
a town. The Carter Fold is in what might be called downtown Hiltons,
but it was where the Family worked, not their original home. Gate
City was the county seat where they transacted official business, and
one of the neighboring towns where A.P. Carter collected songs before
his wife and sister-in-law started singing them. Bristol was where
they recorded their first few songs. Later they moved west; in
her memoir June Carter Cash said they moved to get away from the
plague of tuberculosis, a later biographer thought the "real"
motive may have been to distract attention from Sara Carter's
divorce, both reasons would have been strong motivating factors. But
Gate City loved them. (Gate City may, in fact, have been the source
of some of A.P. Carter's songs.)
I'm
probably leaving out some people who deserve to be listed.
"Everybody's made a tape these days," lamented the same
person who commissioned and marketed my retrospective album, "Fun
to Play the Old Time Songs." Just about everybody had, too. Some
of those homemade cassette albums were, like mine, souvenirs for
people's friends and family, and some were actually played on the
radio and recognized by people who didn't know the musicians
personally. The thirty band names listed here all sold albums to
people who did not know the musicians personally.
The
Original Carter Family
They
really were the First Family of Country Music. There's a channel
dedicated to their music on Youtube and an article about their
history on Wikipedia. Although their home base was about ten miles
away from Gate City, the high school was consolidated in 1956, so I
went to school with Carter, Dougherty, and Bays cousins.
Among
Maybelle Carter's contributions to musical history was enshrining the
autoharp, a fad instrument of her day, as a traditional part of our
"country" music--as distinct from Nashville's. "The
Nashville Sound," as played 24/7 on some radio station somewhere
on every part of the continent, is a product of unionized musicians
who were more interested in secure jobs than in exploring or
perfecting the art of music. It sticks to three or at most four
chords, a steady duple rhythm, with an emphasis on lead guitar,
rhythm guitar, and bass guitar. The Carters themselves were not bound
by those limitations. Their sound did reflect the fact that they were
young, not rich, and pretty much self-taught musicians, but they were
also creative and apt to experiment. So: autoharp. So: sometimes a
3/4 rhythm, sometimes even a "diverse" musical
influence--everyone recognizes the Mexican sound in "You Are My
Flower."
I
was not a particularly talented child. Special talent was not
considered necessary by music teachers, or art teachers either, in
elementary schools up to about 1970, or older ones after that time.
Most children aren't born singing on key or drawing recognizable
images. So, teachers have to teach them. Apparently I sang some
songs, even as a toddler, recognizably enough that my parents were
delighted and started recording and coaching me; I remember
that the whole idea of singing on key started to make sense to me in
grade four, but I'd been taped (mercifully the tapes don't seem to
have survived) before starting school. In grade four I was able to
bang out tunes on a keyboard. Also in that year Prevention
magazine mentioned that playing a wind instrument could help
straighten kids' teeth and improve their lung capacity. My teeth,
which had been pronounced hopeless by orthodontists, certainly needed
all the help they could get and my lung capacity could use some help
too, so my parents gritted their teeth and signed me up for the
middle school band, in which I was issued a French horn. Neither of
them liked the brass band sound, which was going out of fashion, so
after three years of that they returned the horn to the school, took
me into Kingsport, and bought me an autoharp, and said "Now you
can learn to play something that sounds like music. Like
Maybelle Carter."
By
that time, what had once been "the Carter lick that nobody else
can do" was the "lick" or "scratch" every
player of a stringed instrument wanted to do; I was doing it within
the year. Your thumb hits the "oom" notes on the bass side,
and your fingers pick out the "pah" and melody notes on the
treble side. Easy peasy. But when Maybelle Carter first recorded,
nobody else was playing rhythm and melody with the same hand. It
seemed difficult to those who had grown up not doing it. It was the
sort of thing people learn when they try to do by themselves what
they've heard or seen done by a group.
I
appreciate the visuals, but that's not the version of "Little
Moses" I learned. The original recorded version has a soprano
lead on the chorus, which is barely discernible on the video. What I
sing is the soprano melody part.
Two
more things to note about the video: (1) Older Americans didn't grin
as much as Americans born after 1950 did. The natural facial
expressions on that video, and the other extant video of Sara and
Maybelle Carter as mostly "retired" widows singing the
songs they made famous in the 1930s, have impressed some young
viewers as looking "sad" or "tortured." Actually
their generation was influenced by Victorian tastes, which admired
"grave" expressions and manners. They are old women singing
songs that must have reminded them of bygone times and losses, so
feelings of pain or grief might have been present, but their brisk,
rhythmic, and "grave"-faced performance showed nothing. A
natural, unaffected, non-grinny attitude appeals to some people. I am
one.
(2)
Many of the Original Carter Family's songs didn't fit into the 1950s
broadcast music culture at all. For one thing no line was
drawn between religious and secular songs; traditional singers, like
my family, would sing gospel songs and even High Church hymns for
after-dinner home entertainment, along with popular songs and nursery
songs. Also, "love" was recognized as something about as
likely to be tragic as to be happy, and romantic "love" was
not confused with spiritual love or elevated to the position of a
supreme value or virtue. Also, in the 1920s, 1930s, and 1940s, death
was part of life; major wars and plagues were going on, people were
likely to attend more funerals than weddings in any given year, even
"upbeat"-sounding songs might be about someone's untimely
death...
🎶
*First in a series of articles by Priscilla King on the subject of the country music highway.